Ginseng, reishi, taiga root… They have all made the leap from alternative medicine to modern cosmetics. And this has to do with the so-called adaptogens.
The plants that are so much talked about in the beauty world promise a lot: an even complexion, fewer wrinkles, stronger blood circulation, glow … Adaptogens are considered to be responsible for these effects – which is why they have recently been playing the leading role in a number of creams, cleansers, masks, cleansers and skin-enhancing dietary supplements.
Balance and equilibrium: What adaptogens can do
Adapto… what? “Adaptogens are active ingredients from plants, fungi or even substances of animal origin with extraordinary healing effects”, explains Natalia Leutnant, certified biologist, medicinal plant expert and author of the book “Ginseng, Taiga Root, Rose Root. Adaptogens – miracle healing plants for today”. The mineral resources come mainly from Asia: “The taiga root, for example, has its origin in Russia, ginseng mostly comes from mountain and forest regions in northern Korea, Siberia and China. The adaptogens found in them are chemical compounds that bring the body back into balance and keep it in organic equilibrium”.
So you can think of Adaptogene almost as a good friend. Someone who gets you down when you’re overexcited, or cheers you on when you feel lethargic. To benefit the skin, you can apply the active ingredients externally, swallow them – or combine both. The question remains: How exactly do adaptogenic plants actually do this? Answer: in two different ways.
In creams they play off their secondary plant substances such as polyphenols, flavonoids, terpenes or beta-glucans, which can influence the skin’s appearance. If we take them in the form of food supplements, capsules, powders or even teas, adaptogens act on our nervous system, blocking or activating it. “Each adaptogen has a different effect,” says Dr. David Hauck, a graduate engineer in pharmaceutical chemistry. “One reduces inflammation, another stimulates the cell metabolism of the whole body and the immune system of the skin.” The result: it can better protect itself against free radicals that would otherwise damage the complexion. “Adaptogens have extremely good anti-aging properties,” adds Natalia Leutnant. “They prevent or delay the onset of many effects of aging and have a rejuvenating effect on stressed organs such as the skin.
Tip: Take Adaptogen curatively and not permanently, for about a month or until the pack is empty. And creams? Involve an Adaptogen product in your routine and see how you cope with it, as with any new skin care product, and above all, whether you tolerate it well.
You finally want to know which plants suit your skin type?
Find your match
Sensible Skin
You wish for less irritation and redness?
Due to its calming effect, ginseng in cosmetic products helps to alleviate skin problems such as redness, itching, neurodermatitis and sunburn damage. Especially the Tibetan ginseng roots strengthen the skin barrier. The daily intake of ashwagandha (sleeping berry, winter cherry), which has been used in Ayurveda for thousands of years, also combats the causes of inflammation. How? By increasing T-cell production in healthy adults.
Mature Skin
You wish for more tautness and smoothness?
According to Chinese wisdom, if you drink Schisandra juice, your skin will be soft and firm like a rose petal; you can order the juice from JANZ-SCHISANDRA. Dr. David Hauck confirms: “Schisandra, maca and ginseng have a strong antioxidant effect, which fends off free radicals. And they are responsible for the breakdown of our collagen support tissue.
Wan Skin
You want more blood flow and glow?
If you want a glowing complexion, you need fabrics that revitalise. Natalia Leutnant explains: “Ointments with rose root warm the skin, protect it from frost and make it glow. I recommend taiga root preparations as inlays – they are used to alleviate environmental stress. The toxic influence of certain substances such as alcohol on the skin can also be reduced by Taiga root”.
Unclean Skin
You wish for clearer skin and fewer pimples?
Then at least tubers and mushrooms are worth a try. Rose root, for example, has an antiviral effect when used internally. As far as cosmetics are concerned, Dr. David Hauck recommends adaptogenic mushrooms like Reishi (shiny lacquer porling): “It contains beta-glucans which are ideal for impure skin. The immune system is boosted by the application, which has the consequence that the acne propolis bacterium is pushed back and can settle less easily”.